For the final day of London Collections: Men, we headed to Sean Suen presented by GQ China, giving us soft tailoring, stripes and a muted colour palette. A well-constructed versatile vest was an essential part of the collection, be it in the form of a top or a sleeveless jacket, combined with shorts, fluid trousers and styled over shirts at times, accompanied by an extended belt, featured throughout. A very gentle collection, exuding luxe and effortless style.
Jimmy Choo's presentation was another skater event, only this time the pro skaters and BMX-ers utilising the ramps as intended, sporting bright sport luxe trainers in fun colour combos and textures.
E. Tautz showcased a fresh take on the 50s, complete with the slicked back hair in a slight quiff. Gingham shorts and trousers amongst anoraks and wide cut denim, blush pinks and burgundy as well as navy and hints of mustard yellows, made up the collection, which was non-fussy and easy going.
E. Tautz SS16 Collection. Photos by Style.com
For his SS16 collection, Xander Zhou decided to take inspiration from his own culture and heritage, interpreting it in a polished and structured manner. The Chinese references varied from Chinese iconography embroidered on rich silks, to the Yin and Yang symbol seen on handbags and embroidered as a logo on some of the garments. The rest of the collection featured structured jackets and trousers, stripe and floral embroidered polo shirts, leather and denim, complete with chunky arrow shaped key rings and Chinese symbol strips attached to the garments. A personal highlight of the last day of LC:M.
Xander Zhou SS16 Collection. Photos by Style.com
Next up was Fashion East with its 2 current designers- Grace Wales Bonner and new addition Charles Jeffrey, a recent CSM graduate. Jeffrey's monthly club gathering LOVERBOY- a collaborative project between himself, photographers, artists and musicians- was brought to LC:M in a scaled down version for his first presentation through Fashion East. The collection was an extension of his graduate collection, where we saw hand painted knitted jumpers and denim, high waisted belted trousers worn over skin coloured tights tucked over shirts, which was widely revered. A few more pieces in a similar vein were added, tailored shorts and leather trousers, but the core of his graduate vision remained, and we couldn't be happier.
To contrast Jeffrey's mini rave, Grace Wales Bonner's presentation was calm and a toned down progression from her previous collection, with more whites and attention to subtle detail. The silhouette was carried through alongside her diverse casting, ensuring a prominent voice and a clear aesthetic.
Grace Wales Bonner SS16 Collection. Photos by Style.com
More 50s inspired looks were featured in Katie Eary's SS16 collection, though hers involved My Little Pony (with added penises), pastel colours and dip dye. It was also very skater boy and rebelliousin style, with shirts tied around the waist with safety pins on the knots and tops half tucked in, giving it attitude. The collection was casual; belted low rise jeans worn with undone short sleeve shirts, bomber jackets and shorts styled with ombre knee high socks and vans.
Burberry's SS16 collection, titled "Strait-Laced", did as it said on the tin. The collection was inspired by the true dandies and the late English summers; graceful and romantic, with a 24-piece orchestra accompanying British musical Rhodes on his live set for the show.
Burberry Prorsum SS16 Collection. Photos by Style.com
Ending with one of my favourites, Bobby Abley brought us Star Wars with his "Super Dooper Storm Trooper" and "Princess Slayer" slogan adorned pieces. JW gave us outer space, but Bobby Abley made it fun and exciting, like a kid dreaming of becoming an astronaut. With neoprene, bronze glitter encrusted and fuzzy fabrics, covered in little bears in space ships prints and bear shaped grey and black camo - even the all black Darth Vader embroidered top looked cute. This season Abley collaborated with jewellery designer, O Thongthai, known for her bright and loud collections. The jewellery featured was a great compliment to the collection; with gold band rings spelling out "Star Wars" and diamond shaped Darth Vader inspired mouth pieces. Oh and let’s not forget the amazing reflective teddy bears carried; a Bobby Abley signature.
Words: Desi Lazarova
Images Source: Style.com