Normally, waiting for a collection to start can be such a task that it leaves many editors disgruntled and looking for the nearest exit. The Pam Hogg show, which was scheduled to start at 7:30PM, did not send the first model down the catwalk until nearly an hour later.
Luckily, an anxious audience was left entertained by a soundtrack of brash rock and a fashion parade courtesy of Hogg’s cult following of supporters. Flaunting through the Mason’s halls, they stood as true representations of what British style has come to be globally known for - a carefree and fuck you attitude.
Fortunately, this was not an occasion where the hype around the show distracted from the clothes. The show opened on a more serious tone with the model wearing a Balenciaga-esque cocooned cape that appeared to be penned by Grayson Perry. It read: “Give a man a gun and he’ll rob a bank. Give a man a bank and he’ll rob the world”. Fashion tackles politics yet again.
However, the remainder of the collection was authentic to Hogg’s famed aesthetic. Chiffon, leather, lurex and metal - a recipe that sounds fit for an S&M dream - constructed the heart of the collection’s DNA. Psychedelic Ziggy Stardust jumpsuits with fringing, metal-studded berets, clamouring metallic wedges and knee-high boots were met with a cheering crowd standing to their feet to get a better glimpse of the full look.
Underneath all the shine and metal was a nod to early 18th century painting. It reminded me of some of the social satire scenes painted from the school of English painter William Hogarth. Two of my favourite looks were a his-and-hers version of a genre tableau set against Hogg’s rock star babes. This clash of centuries worked nicely for Hogg, but I’m not sure if the court of King George III would have approved of Hogg’s sartorial suggestions.
As much as this show was a spectacle, it possessed a spirit and integrity that was true Hogg. She did not deny herself or her fans what they have grown to love her for. This is a feat that should be applauded, especially now in an industry where designers are constantly charged to attempt to reinvent the fashion wheel every season. Hogg sent down the runway things we had seen from her before, but they’re pieces we won’t mind seeing again and again.
Words: Zadrian Smith
Image Source: Rankin / Anthony Harvey @ Getty Images