Three collections in and Demna Gvasalia, head of the Paris-based Vetements team, is already one of the eight finalists up for the LVMH (Louis Vuitton Moët Hennessy) prize. That does not surprise me; their clothes have a simple message and the brand has a simple vision, which is refreshing to see.
Perfectly tailored and oversized suits mingle with casual floor-length coats, layered over vintage-reworked-denim, pre-owned t-shirts and exaggerated bombers and biker jackets at their best. Androgyny strongly dictates the looks and is one of the many elements making the young brand worth getting excited over.
Deconstructing and reconstructing is something Gvasalia - and the other six members of the collective - are familiar with, having previously worked at Margiela. However, keeping designs on the wearable side of fashion is proving very effective. The AW’15 show was held at the basement of Paris' well-known gay club, Le Depot, with a cool street-cast lead by the stylist behind the brand, Lotta Volkova.
Others such as photographer Harley Weir helped to give the clothes the attitude and individualism that is celebrated by the brand.
Vetements have very quickly built a label that already feels established and synonymous with the words 'signature' and 'aesthetics'. The clothes are by no means groundbreaking, but in spite of that, I love what Vetements are doing and they are certainly one to keep an eye on in coming seasons.
Words: Desi Lazarova
Runway images: Marcus Tondo / Style.com